The Basics
So now, you are ready to run out and start assembling your gear. But, what should you get first? And, how much is all this going to cost?

First the bad news--it will cost you between $1,000 and $1,500 to fully equip yourself to portray a Confederate infantryman. Now the good news--you do not need to spend this much all at once to get yourself started. Usually there are enough members in the regiment with extra equipment that you will be able to borrow some things at first--a sort of "try before you buy" deal. Some guys have participated in their first events without owning any of the equipment.

To start portraying a Confederate infantryman you need the basics--a uniform and a rifle. One thing you have probably noticed, however, is that Confederate soldiers were not all that "uniform" in their appearance. In June 1863, a Union newspaperman made note of the appearance of

Confederate soldiers by writing:
Their dress was a wretched mixture of all cuts and colors. There was not the slightest attempt at uniformity in this respect. Every man seemed to have put on whatever he could get hold of, without regard to shape or color. I noticed a pretty large sprinkling of blue pants among them... Their shoes, as a general thing were poor; some of the men were entirely barefooted. Their equipment were light as compared with those of our men. They consisted of a thin woolen blanket, coiled up and slung from the shoulder, and a cartridge-box. The whole cannot weigh more than twelve or fourteen pounds.... The marching of the men was irregular and careless; their arms were rusty and ill-kept.

Major Robert Stiltes wrote another description of the Confederate soldier in 1864.
...each man had one blanket, one small haversack, one change of underclothes, a canteen, cup and plate of tin, a knife and fork and the clothes in which he stood. When ready to march, the blanket, rolled lengthwise, the ends brought together and strapped, hung from left shoulder across under the right arm; the haversack---furnished with towel, soap, comb, knife and fork in various pockets, a change of underclothes in the main division [of the sack], and whatever rations we happened to have in the other--hung on the left hip; the canteen, cup and plate, tied together, hung on the right; toothbrush at will, stuck in two button holes of jacket or in haversack; tobacco bag hung to a breast button, pipe in pocket. In this rig...the Confederate soldier considered himself all right and all ready for anything; ...and this "all" weighed about seven or eight pounds.

These descriptions might tempt you to go out and buy the first things that you think look good. DON'T! There were uniform standards and regulations in the Confederate Army and we have them in the 1stTennessee as well. By following the recommendations in this chapter, you will save yourself money, time, and "grief."

A list of recommended sources of equipment is included at the end of this chapter. These specific sources have been selected primarily because they offer items of good quality that are correct for the impression of the 1st Tennessee. You may pay a little more for the items than from another source, but they will last so you will not go wrong ordering them. Many of the other sutlers you see at events will get the items they sell from these same sources. Sometimes they will tell you who supplies their items, but not always. If a specific recommended source is not listed for an item, it is your option where to get the item(s) from.

The Uniform
Everyone knows the Confederate soldier wore a gray uniform, right? This is the generally held perception, but as with most perceptions, it is not entirely correct. Especially at the start of the war, there were great variations in uniform design and color. This caused great confusion at the Battle of First Manassas (or First Bull Run for those of you educated in Yankee schools). Many Confederate units wore blue uniforms just like their Union counterparts. In addition, there were Union volunteer regiments that wore gray uniforms. Regiments fighting on the same side found themselves firing at each other in the smoke and confusion of the battle.

Because of this situation, both the Federal and Confederate governments adopted uniform standards. The Confederate War Department specified that soldiers would wear a long, double-breasted frock coat of cadet gray (a bluish gray color). Collars, cuffs, and edging on the coat were to be in the color of the branch of service the soldier was serving in (blue for the infantry, red for artillery, and yellow for cavalry). Trousers were to be sky blue in color and made of wool--the same as worn by Federal troops. The hat was to be in the style of a French kepi, with the crown the color of the branch of service. Boots were to be of the Jefferson-type. No requirements were specified for the color or style of shirts, socks, or drawers to be worn with the uniform.

These uniform regulations persisted throughout the war, but were seldom followed in practice. Shortages of wool and a lack of transportation resulted in soldiers getting what they could from whatever sources they could--be that from family at home or off their enemies. As supplies of gray dye grew scarce in the South, other uniform colors were seen. Butternut brown is the best example of this. Experience from long marches and fighting also resulted in individual soldiers adopting uniform items that seemed to be more practical than those prescribed by the government.

The 1st Tennessee portrays a western theater infantry regiment of the mid-war period. Most western theater soldiers wore short shell jackets (also called roundabouts) rather than the frock coats. In our unit, we wear Atlanta Depot-style shell jackets made from gray jeans cloth (a mixture of 50% wool and 50% cotton). This jacket is normally worn without branch of service colors on it, although such trim colors are appropriate for an early war impression. When NCO rank stripes are worn, they will be black in color. (It was not uncommon for Confederate NCO's to dispense with sewing stripes on their jackets. Many of them thought it made them targets for Yankee sharpshooters.) The jacket should fit loosely enough to be comfortable. The sleeves should be long enough so they end about 1" above the first set of knuckles on the back of your hand. Jackets made of wool will shrink more than those made of jeans cloth.

Trousers can be the same gray jeans cloth as your shell jacket or they can be of wool (gray, brown, or sky blue), and worn with suspenders. They were worn much differently than modern pants are. Typically, they were worn loosely and appeared baggy. The waistline is higher than commonly found today, typically worn just above the belly button. Being made of wool or some other heavy material, wearing trousers loose made sense. It allows air to circulate next to the body and keeps you cooler. The trousers do not have to match your jacket. The suspenders should be appropriate for the period. Typically, they are white in color.

Shoes should be the Jefferson-style brogans, either black or brown in color. Heel plates are highly recommended to limit the wear on the heels of your brogans. Just remember that if you install them, watch your step on stone (and modern tile) floors. You can easily slip on such hard surface floors, not to mention do considerable damage to vinyl tiles. If you really want to experience what it was like on the march, use Civil War-era insoles. If you want to be able to walk after the weekend is over, then buy a set of modern insoles that you can put in your shoes!
Although the kepi was worn in the western theater, the slouch hat was much more common (and has the added advantage of keeping the rain and sun off you better). Make sure you get a style of hat appropriate for the period. Modern cowboy hats are out! Hat brass (bugle emblems, regimental numbers, and company letters) were the exception rather than the rule, so do not bother putting it on your hat--especially the slouch hat. Branch of service cords and tassels were also the exception, but probably more common than the hat brass was.

Shirts can be any color and style that was appropriate during the 1860's. Shirts should fit loosely. Typically shirts of this period had a "drop shoulder pattern" with the shoulder seam falling about 3" below your natural shoulder. Sleeves will typically be "blousy" at the cuffs. The sleeves should extend to about 2" above the first set of knuckles on your hand. Reproduction shirts can be purchased from many sources and cost about $25-$35 each. (You may also want to consider getting a period tie or cravat to wear with your shirt, but this is optional.)
Socks should be gray wool or rag wool (a good warm pair of hunting/hiking socks works best--the kind without the red stripe on top). In the field, the trousers were tucked into the top of the socks to prevent bugs from crawling up the soldier's legs. While this was specified in the regulations, many soldiers did not bother to do this.

Many soldiers also wore vests. These could be either a military style or civilian style. The typical Southern soldier wore a civilian style vest, especially around camp when he was not wearing his uniform coat. Vests are optional, but if you decide to get one it should cost $45-$65.
So, which of these items should you get first? The shoes! This is the one item other members of the unit are least likely to have an extra pair of. If they do, they are most likely worn out and falling apart. If you decide to get your brogans from some place other than one of the recommended sources at the end of this chapter, check with one of the veteran members of the unit first. Some vendor's shoes do not hold up and you will end up spending a lot of money and having your shoes fall apart half way through the season. As with everything, good quality brogans cost more, but you also get your money's worth by investing in a good pair of shoes.

The Rifle
The muzzle-loading single-shot 3-band rifle-musket was the primary tool of the infantryman during the Civil War. The most commonly encountered rifles were the .58 caliber Model 1861 or Model 1863 Springfield and the .577 caliber Model 1853 Enfield. Other types of rifles, like the .69 caliber Model 1842 Springfield, were also carried, especially during the early part of the war.

Your rifle will be the single most expensive item of infantry re-enacting equipment that you will buy. Good quality modern reproduction muskets can be purchased from several sources and normally range in price from $350 to $600. Armi Sport, Dixie Gun Works, Euroarms, and Navy Arms are just some of the manufacturers of reproduction muskets. Several of the older members of the regiment have more than one musket, so you can usually put off this purchase for a little while. This might also give you the opportunity to carry some of the different models available so you can gain an appreciation for the particular characteristics of each type.

Choosing which type of musket to purchase is a matter of personal preference as long as it is a 3-banded percussion musket like those mentioned above. If in doubt over what kind of rifle to purchase, ask one of the older members of the unit.

The original 1st Tennessee probably started out the war with .58 caliber Model 1855 rifle-muskets. These muskets had the complex Maynard Tape priming system. Recently, modern reproductions of this musket have become available. The Model 1861 Springfield musket is a modification of the Model 1855, the major modification being the elimination of the Maynard priming system. A close copy of the Model 1855 musket was manufactured in Richmond, Virginia after manufacturing equipment was moved there from the captured Harper's Ferry Arsenal in 1861. The Maynard priming system was not included on these muskets either. Reproduction "Richmond Muskets" are available.

In early 1862, at least portions of the regiment were issued Model 1853 Enfield muskets. Over the course of the war, it is likely that the men of the regiment armed themselves with different kinds of muskets. They were issued to them or they picked up discarded muskets off the battlefield, either to arm themselves with a better weapon or to replace a defective one. If you do decide to get an Enfield, do not worry about the bluing on them. The originals also had bluing, but it tended to wear off much more quickly than on the modern reproduction guns. (Also, the Enfields with bluing on them do not seem to rust as badly when they get wet as the Springfields or un-blued Enfields do.)

One thing we do not recommend is for you to use an original Civil War musket during re-enactments. These are old and often worth considerably more money than it costs to get a reproduction. Continuing to use them only decreases their value because it increases the wear on them. The ones that are not worth much are probably in such bad condition that they would be dangerous to fire them.

Remember above all else, reproduction muskets are real weapons. Just like the originals, they are fully capable of firing projectiles and killing whoever you are shooting at. Firearms safety is paramount whenever you are carrying your musket.

The Revolvers
The revolvers that were commonly used during the Civil War consist of the Colt Model 1851 Navy Revolver in .36 caliber, the Cold Model 1860 Army Revolver in .44 caliber, and the Remington Model 1858 New Army in .44 caliber. Many other models and calibers could also be found. While it was written that every member of the 1st Tennessee was issued one or more revolvers before they left Nashville in 1861, within just a few weeks these had all been discarded and only the officers carried revolvers.

Typically the only enlisted men that carried revolvers were cavalrymen.

Ammunition
You will be firing black powder ammunition in your muzzle-loading musket. Typically, a round of ammunition will consist of 60-90 grains of black powder wrapped in a paper tube. The size of the powder charge will depend to some extent on your musket. We have found that 75-80 grains seems to work best in the .577/.58 caliber muskets. With the .69 caliber muskets, you will need to use a larger charge--80 to 90 grains of powder. At National Park Service (NPS) events, the maximum allowable powder charge is 60 grains. You will have to experiment some to see which charge size your particular musket seems to prefer.

Another thing you will need to experiment with is the type of powder your musket prefers. Normally you will use FFg (2F) powder to make your cartridges, but FFFg (3F) powder is also used. Modern black powder substitutes, like Pyrodex do not seem to work very well and can even be dangerous to use.

You will normally make your own rounds by pouring a measured amount of black powder into a paper tube. (You can buy rounds already made up from sutlers at some events, but they tend to be very expensive.) You can purchase pre-made paper tubes or make your own.
Each Civil War infantryman was to have 100 to 120 rounds of ammunition available before a battle. The typical soldier carried 40-60 rounds, with the remainder kept in the regiment's ordnance wagon(s). Forty rounds are carried in your cartridge box and the remainder in your haversack or knapsack (if you chose to carry extra rounds). Additional rounds were supplied in wooden crates containing 1,000 rounds each in packages of ten rounds.

You may be tempted to carry more ammunition than this, but think twice before you do. Black powder is an explosive and it can (and does) explode when it is exposed to fire or sparks. Hopefully this will only happen when you want it to, but cartridges have been known to detonate while being carried in cartridges boxes and elsewhere (haversack, knapsack, or pockets). The cartridge box is designed to provide some protection to you should this occur.

To fire your rounds in your musket you will also need percussion caps. These are made of copper or brass and contain a small explosive charge that is very sensitive to being hit. They are carried in your cap pouch. Make sure you get the right size of percussion caps. If you look for ones marked "musket caps" you should get the right ones. The percussion caps used on some modern muzzle-loading rifles will not work. We have found the musket caps made in Germany (sold in red label tins) seem to work best.

The Bayonet
The bayonet was a basic piece of fighting equipment for the typical Civil War infantryman. It was a knife that was fitted to the end of the musket and was designed as both a defensive and an offensive weapon for close in use. When the two opposing forces were close to each other, one side would typically charge the other with the bayonet. There was not time to load and fire at this close range so the bayonet became the primary weapon.

The bayonet had been in widespread military since the previous century. In prior wars, the bayonet had been decisive in routing the enemy from the battlefield. During the Civil War, however, the longer range of the rifle muskets meant that the opposing forces did not get close enough to use the bayonet that often. There were few cases of wounds or deaths being inflicted by bayonets during the war.
It was difficult to load the musket while the bayonet was affixed to it. In pressing down their bullets on the powder charge with the ramrod, soldiers could (and still do!) stick themselves in the hand with the points of their bayonets. The bayonet had to be cleaned of powder residue if it was on the end of the musket when the musket was fired. Consequently, many soldiers did not bother with the bayonet at all or only put them on when necessary. (However, the bayonet is essential for "stacking" arms, so all members of the 1st Tennessee are encouraged to equipment themselves with the correct bayonet for their particular type of musket.)

More often, the soldiers found other uses for their bayonets. They were used as tent stakes, candleholders, cooking utensils, and to dig holes in the ground. Many Confederate soldiers simply threw them away to reduce the weight they had to carry when on the march.

Your bayonet should be the "socket" or "angular" type, approximately 18 inches long. You need to make sure you get the appropriate type of bayonet for your rifle. Some bayonets are interchangeable between the Springfield and Enfield muskets, but not all.

You need to be somewhat careful when installing your bayonet on your rifle. The .577/.58 caliber muskets (i.e. the 1861/1863 Springfields, Enfields, etc.) did not have bayonet lugs. Instead, the front sights on these muskets were used for this purpose. The bayonet can easily snap off these sights if excessive side pressure is applied. Typically, this happens when stacking arms or sticking the musket in the ground.

Remember that these are real bayonets so you need to be careful when handling one. More Civil War soldiers received wounds from mishandling their own bayonets than from intentionally being stabbed with one by an enemy.

Swords
Swords were a symbol of rank during the Civil War. Only officers and certain NCOs carried swords. First Sergeants and Regimental Sergeant Majors were authorized to carry NCO swords but most did not bother with them. As with revolvers, the only enlisted men that typically carried swords were cavalrymen.

Accouterments
These consist of your cartridge box, cap pouch, bayonet and scabbard, and various other leather belts and straps used to carry your equipment from. Your haversack and canteen are also part of your accouterments.

Your ammunition is carried in your cartridge box and cap pouch. The cartridge box holds your cartridges. It needs to be strong and waterproof to protect your cartridges from getting wet. The cartridges themselves are carried in "tins" inside your cartridge box. Each tin has an upper compartment and a lower compartment. Ten loose rounds are carried in the upper compartment and ten additional rounds in the lower compartment. The ones in the lower compartment may be either loose or packaged. The cartridge box is worn on your right side suspended either from a strap or on your belt.

Your percussion or musket caps are carried in your cap pouch. The pouch should have lamb's wool sewn on the inside to prevent your caps from spilling when you take one out. It is worn on your belt in front near the buckle on the right side.
The bayonet is carried in a scabbard. There are two basic styles of bayonet scabbards--the Gaylord style and the Enfield style. The Gaylord style scabbard puts the bayonet at an angle while the Enfield style suspends the bayonet straight down your leg. The Gaylord style was typically issued with the Springfield muskets while the Enfield style was supplied with the Enfield rifles. As with the bayonets themselves, the scabbards are not always interchangeable, so you need to get the appropriate one for your bayonet.

Your food and other personal items are carried in your haversack. The haversack is a cloth bag suspended on a strap that goes over your right shoulder and hangs on your left side (opposite your cartridge box). Normally you will carry your mess kit, "housewife," extra ammunition, and other items in it.

Your choice of canteen style is up to you, but should be appropriate to the period. Stainless steel ones do not rust, but should be covered with wool cloth so it is not apparent that they are not made of tin since stainless steel did not exist during the Civil War. Wooden canteens are also acceptable. Typically the metal canteens hold more water than the wooden ones do.

Other Stuff
In addition to the items mention above, you will need a host of other things to fully equip yourself. These include such things as a blanket, a poncho and/or gum blanket, mess kit, "housewife," overcoat, gun cleaning kit, tent, knapsack, and other "haversack stuffers."

You will need a blanket (or two) to keep you warm at night. A wool blanket or quilt will work best. Wool blankets should be of a type used during the Civil War and of a dark color (the modern olive drab Army blankets are the wrong color for the period). If you use a quilt, make sure it is made with material and colors/patterns that were in existence during the Civil War. No specific source is recommended.

The poncho/gum blanket was a favorite item of equipment for the infantryman on both sides because of the multiple uses they had. Made of rubberized cloth, it could be used as a raincoat, a ground cloth or even a shelter. The main difference between the poncho and the gum blanket was that the poncho had a slit cut in the middle through which you can put your head. You might want to consider getting both a gum blanket and a poncho. The plain gum blanket makes a good ground cloth under your bedroll at night and you can also use it to wrap your blanket roll in. That leaves the poncho available should it start to rain.

You will need some sort of mess kit to eat with. This will consist of a tin plate, a fork, and a knife at a minimum. You might also want to add a spoon. The plate can be nothing more than a tin pie pan. Period style plates, forks, spoons, and knives are available from many sutlers. You should also consider getting a tin cup to drink from. Many re-enactors will get a "mucket" which will double for a cup. It is shaped like a large cup with a cover and a handle on it. In addition to drinking from it, you can cook your food (or coffee) in it over a campfire. You might also want to include a cloth in your "mess kit." This is used as a napkin, dish cloth, towel, and a potholder.

After you have been "campaigning" for a while you will need a "housewife." No, not the kind you marry, but just as useful none-the-less. A "housewife" is a small sewing kit that contains needles, thread, extra buttons, and cloth to patch holes in your cloths.

Confederate uniform regulations did include an overcoat for wear during cold weather. Very few were issued to the soldiers, however. More often, the Confederate infantryman got an overcoat from the Yankees--either picking one up off the battlefield or taking it from a prisoner. Since these overcoats are heavy to carry, it was not unusual for an individual to throw his away when warm weather came so he would not have to carry it. Confederate-issue overcoats were gray wool while the "captured" ones were sky-blue in color. An overcoat comes in very handy as an extra blanket at night and to keep the chill off first thing in the morning while you are waiting for your coffee to get warm over the campfire. There is no recommended source for this optional item. If you decide to get one, they will typically cost $180-$250.

You will need a gun cleaning kit to keep your musket functioning. You can get away with just a few simple items. The ramrod of your musket can be used as a cleaning rod. It is threaded on one end to accept attachments such as a cleaning jag, brass brush, patch puller, worm (bullet puller), etc. Typically, these "attachments" come with either 10/32 or 8/32 threads. Make sure you get the right size for the threads on your ramrod or get an appropriate size adapter. Also, if you get a brass brush, make sure it is one designed for use in muzzle-loading rifles. The ones that aren't designed for this purpose can break off inside your musket's barrel and put you out of business until you can get to a gunsmith to have it removed.

While you can use your musket's ramrod, you might want to consider getting a wooden (or fiberglass) ramrod to do your cleaning with. (The wooden ones are more realistic, but the fiberglass ones are less likely to break. Nothing can ruin your re-enacting weekend more than having a ramrod break off in the barrel of your musket.) The threads on the end of the ramrod of your musket often are damaged as a result of putting the ramrod back into the slot under the barrel. Therefore, the attachments will no longer fit until you "re-thread" the ramrod. You can avoid this problem by having a separate ramrod. Make sure you get one that is long enough to fit completely down the barrel of your musket and still stick out far enough so you can grip it.

Your gun cleaning kit should also include a nipple pick, some cloth to use as patches, some steel wool for cleaning rust off the metal parts of your musket, a nipple wrench, and a screwdriver. (Replica nipple wrench/screwdriver combinations work very well and save space as well.) An extra nipple or two also come in handy when you have been doing a lot of shooting.

You do not need to worry about getting a tent since the regiment has several available for use. These are the "A-frame" style that was typically used during the Civil War. Later you might want to consider getting a shelter half to make a "dog tent" from or even getting your own A-frame or wall tent. If you do get your own tent, get a period-correct one made of white canvas. (Shelter halves were the predecessors of the Army pup tents.) You can also fasten a couple of gum blankets together to form a simple tent or "shebang." The bigger wall tents were used by officers and as hospitals but are also commonly used to accommodate additional family members when they participate in the re-enactments as well. A tent fly is typically used with a wall tent.

Knapsacks were used by soldiers to carry their blanket(s), extra clothes, and other personal items. They tended to be heavy and uncomfortable to wear so many soldiers got rid of them. Blanket rolls typically replaced the knapsack as time went on. Confederate soldiers typically got their knapsacks by picking them up off the battlefield or along the roads used by retreating Union soldiers. There are indications that the men of the 1stTennessee carried knapsacks well into 1864. There are different styles of reproduction knapsacks available, typically costing $95-$130.
Some other items you might want to consider carrying include a straight razor (for looks unless you are exceptionally brave and have a steady hand), a period toothbrush, comb, soap, candle and candle holder, a small bible, a deck of cards, wooden matches, a pocket watch, a journal, and writing materials. These are among the common items that a soldier would carry in their knapsack or haversack. Some would also carry a book to read, newspapers, and letters from home. Most of these items are small and can be picked up over time. They do definitely add to your impression, especially during living history events.

Recommended Sources of Equipment
Note: The prices shown below are what were typical at the time this guide was published. Higher prices should be expected as time goes on, especially for items made of leather.

Shell Jacket:
The Quartermaster Shop
5565 Griswold Road,
Kimball, Michigan 48074
Phone # (810) 367-6702

Their Model # 1360 Atlanta Depot Shell Jacket in Grey Wool Jean cloth will cost you about $150. When you contact them, let them know you are a member of Company B, 1st Tennessee Infantry Regiment and they will make sure you get the right jacket.

Trousers:
The Quartermaster Shop
5565 Griswold Road,
Kimball, Michigan 48074
Phone # (810) 367-6702

Their Model # 702 military or Model # 1601 civilian trousers are recommended. You may choose any cloth and color from among those offered. Cost should be about $65, slightly higher if you order your trousers with modified pockets or additional suspender buttons. You may buy your trousers from some other source, but be sure you get good quality ones so they will last.

Shoes:
C&D Jarnagin Company
Route 3, Box 217
Corinth, Mississippi 38834
Phone # (601) 287-4977

Their Model # 100, US 1851 Jefferson Brogans wear well and are the best quality shoes we have found. They should be ordered "rough out" (the rough side of the leather facing out) and will cost about $100. You should get them with the optional heel plates so they will wear longer.

Leather Accouterments:
C&D Jarnagin Company
Route 3, Box 217
Corinth, Mississippi 38834
Phone # (601) 287-4977

Cartridge box should be the MaGee & George, New Orleans Depot (Model # 260) or the Blivens, Shelbyville Depot (Model 223) in black or russet. Cost should be about $55 to $60.

Cartridge box slings are optional, but if you get one order either the leather (Model 260) or linen (Model 263) one. The leather one can be either black or russet, but it should match your cartridge box. The linen one should be painted black. Cost is about $15.

The cap box should be the MaGee & George (Model 250A) or the Baton Rouge (Model 250B). The MaGee & George one is available in either black or russet leather. The Baton Rouge one is only available in black leather. Cost should be about $15-$20.

The belt (Models 233, 234, 235, 236, or 237) can be ordered in either black or russet leather. Various styles of buckles are available (depending on the model you order). The choice of belt buckle is up to you but should agree with the impression of the 1st Tennessee. Cost should range between $15-$35.

Haversack:
C&D Jarnagin Company
Route 3, Box 217
Corinth, Mississippi 38834
Phone # (601) 287-4977

The CS type white (Model # 306) or US regulation black (Model #304). Both haversacks come with inner bags. The US regulation model is painted black and does offer some waterproofing that is not available if you get the CS model. Cost should be $15-$30.

Poncho/Gum Blanket:
C&D Jarnagin Company
Route 3, Box 217
Corinth, Mississippi 38834
Phone # (601) 287-4977

The Model # 320 at a cost of $35-$40.